If you've ever wondered how professional printers get soft, vibrant, high-resolution results on garments, it starts before the screen ever hits the press. It starts with color separations.
Check out this side-by-side comparison of a first-timer’s separation versus a pro artist's work. The difference? Subtle shifts in ink modulation, DPI, halftone density, and color channel choice that transform how a print feels and flows on fabric.
The Power of Separation
In screen printing, color separations are the digital roadmap that guides ink placement. They're not just about splitting a design into CMYK or spot colors. They're about controlling where and how ink lands, down to the dot.
As seen in the video, Tom Davenport’s pro-level separation avoids laying black where it’s not needed. That intentional gap allows the fabric to move better and prevents over-depositing ink. In contrast, the DIY version used black ink where the garment should’ve been allowed to breathe. That can result in stiffness and muddied detail.
RELATED: Spot Color Separation Techniques in Adobe Illustrator
Tom vs. Darryl: A Real-World Comparison
Both prints were manually pulled using the same press setup — same mesh, same squeegee, same conditions. The only difference was the separation artwork. Here's a quick breakdown:
| Category | First-Time Separation | Pro Separation |
|---|---|---|
| LPI | 60 LPI | 65 LPI |
| Angle | 22.5° | Angle set per channel via RIP |
| DPI | 300 DPI | 600 DPI |
| Ink Modulation | More solid black, heavier coverage across the design | Refined halftones, minimal solid black, highlight whites strategically layered |
| Mesh & Squeegee | Identical: 305 mesh, 70/90/70 squeegee, printed manually | |
| Result on Garment | Heavier feel, visible halftones, less flexibility | Softer, smoother, breathable print with clean transitions |
What’s Really Going On in the Separation
Watching the video, the visual difference is clear — but the technical reasons behind it might not be. Here's what made Tom's separation more polished and professional:
- Ink Modulation: Tom used halftone dot control to apply ink only where needed, avoiding buildup. Darryl’s version had less modulation, which led to thicker deposits and less breathability.
- Layer Strategy: Tom left black out of certain areas entirely, letting shirt color come through. Darryl used black more liberally, which added contrast but also stiffness.
- Detail & DPI: Tom’s art was built at a higher resolution, meaning finer dots and smoother transitions. Darryl’s halftones were coarser, making them more visible on press.
Both printers used the same manual press setup. But the way they built their artwork changed how the ink behaved on fabric. Separation is where control begins.
Color Separation FAQs
Whether you're just starting out or leveling up your artwork, color separations come with a lot of moving parts. Here are some of the most common questions we hear in the shop, at trade shows, and across the print community.
“What LPI and resolution should I use?”
For garment printing, a good starting point is 45–65 LPI with artwork created at 300–600 DPI. Higher resolution allows for finer halftones and smoother gradients — but make sure your mesh count, emulsion, and press setup can support it.
“Why do DPI and angle matter in Photoshop?”
DPI sets the resolution of your halftones. LPI controls the spacing between those dots. Angle matters because overlapping angles in different channels can cause moiré patterns. Most printers use 22.5°, 45°, or 61° as starting points, but testing is key.
“What affects the softness or stiffness of a print?”
It often comes down to ink modulation and overprinting. Too much ink, especially in dense black areas, can lead to heavy, stiff prints. Using halftones, minimizing overlap, and letting the shirt breathe through the design helps keep prints soft and wearable.
“What printer or film setup do I need?”
Many pros use inkjet printers paired with waterproof film and RIP software. Make sure your setup can output accurate spot colors and halftones for best results.
“I’m just getting started. Where do I even begin?”
Start with Photoshop for Screen Printing: The Basics. It covers everything from workspace setup to halftones, line art, and adjusting for dot gain.
Still got questions? That’s normal. Every great print starts with trial, error, and a better understanding of your separation workflow.
RELATED: Spot Color Separation Techniques in Adobe Illustrator
Learn to Separate Like a Pro
If you want your prints to look (and feel) professional, it’s time to sharpen your separation skills. Our online screen printing design courses walk you through everything from workspace setup to advanced techniques like sim process and grayscale seps.
Photoshop for Screen Printing: The Basics
Perfect for beginners or anyone new to Photoshop, this course covers:
- Setting Up the Workspace
- Creating Black and White Line Art
- Converting Artwork to Halftones
- Adjusting for Dot Gain
Photoshop for Screen Printing: Advanced Color Separations
For experienced artists and print pros looking to level up. You’ll learn:
- Spot Color Separations
- Index Color Separations
- Simulated Process Separations (Sim Process)
- Grayscale Techniques for single-color art
Why It Matters
A great screen print isn’t just about the press, ink, or mesh count. It’s about the artwork and the separation that gets you there. When you understand how your digital files translate to ink on fabric, every print becomes more intentional, more vibrant, and more professional.
RELATED: Pro Art Made Simple | Ryonet + GraphXsource
Ready to Level Up?
Whether you're building your first print or dialing in photorealistic halftones, color separation is where great prints begin. Master the process and your prints will be better, and your production will be easier.
Keep learning. Keep experimenting. Keep Powering the Print.