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Quickfire Q&A Session | Deep Dive With Colin

Quickfire Q&A Session | Deep Dive With Colin  | Screenprinting.com

Josh Valencia |

In this new episode of Deep Dive with Colin, we tackle 10 questions submitted by you. These questions aren’t quite big enough for a full deep dive but deserve answers to help you perfect your craft. From adjusting print heads to curing ink and mesh counts, we’ve got you covered. Let’s dive right in!

 

1. SHOULD YOU ADJUST THE TILT OF THE PRINT HEAD AFTER CHANGING OFF-CONTACT?

Answer: Yes and no. Off-contact adjustment is about ensuring the screen is evenly lifted from the platen in all four corners. If your print head is tilted (either up or down), you’ll need to adjust it so the screen remains in plane. A slight tilt up is usually fine, but any tilt downwards will cause problems. Adjust accordingly!

RELATED: FUNCTIONAL OFF-CONTACT FOR GREAT SCREEN PRINT RESULTS

2. DO YOU LIFT THE SCREEN BEFORE FLOODING?

Answer: Absolutely! Always lift the screen before flooding. If you don’t, the screen might touch the garment, leading to unwanted prints or ghost images. Keep your prints crisp by ensuring the screen is lifted before applying the flood stroke.

3. IS SQUEEGEE DUROMETER EFFECTIVE IN PUSH VS. PULL STROKES?

Answer: The durometer (hardness) of the Squeegees plays a role, but it’s more about the angle and pressure. Push strokes can be harder to control because of ergonomics, requiring more force to shear the ink. Pull strokes, on the other hand, offer more finesse, and squeegee hardness matters more in getting that ideal ink deposit.

RELATED: SQUEEGEE DUROMETER AND ANGLE | DEED DIVE WITH COLIN

4. BEST MESH COUNT FOR WHITE UNDERBASE & NUMBER OF PRINT STROKES?

Answer: The best mesh count depends on your equipment and goals. Typically, a 156 mesh count works well for a good white underbase with two print strokes (flood and print). The fewer strokes you need, the better your print will feel on the garment. A high-tension screen and quality ink can also reduce the number of strokes needed for a solid, clean print.

RELATED: MESCH COUNT AND YOU

5. CAN YOU MIX STANDARD CURE AND LOW CURE INKS?

Answer: Yes! Mixing standard cure and low cure inks on the same print is fine. Just make sure everything reaches the proper cure temperature. The key is to ensure the ink at the bottom reaches the right temp, especially if you have a mix of low cure and standard cure layers.

6. CAN YOU OVERCURE INK?

Answer: Technically, yes, but it’s rare. Before ink overcures, your shirt will likely catch fire! Overcuring can cause ink to become brittle and crack, and in some cases, create unsightly bubbling or craters. If your ink is overcured, it’ll feel stiff and might even snap when stretched.

RELATED: HOW TO PROPERLY CURE PLASTISOL INK WITH A FLASH DRYER

7. HOW LONG CAN YOU KEEP A JOB IN THE SCREENS FOR REPRINTS?

Answer: Screens relax over time, so saving jobs on screens isn’t ideal, especially for designs requiring tight registration. Over weeks or months, the mesh can distort, throwing your alignment off. Loose designs with flexible registration can be saved longer, but tight designs should be reclaimed sooner.

8. IS DTF (DIRECT TO FILM) AS DURABLE AS SCREEN PRINTING?

Answer: DTF transfers can be just as durable as screen prints if done correctly. The durability hinges on the quality of the adhesive powder used and proper application. Softer adhesives feel nicer but may wear out quicker. Harder adhesives last longer but may feel stiffer. As long as the transfer is pressed correctly, it will hold up comparably to a well-cured plastisol print.

9. CAN YOU MIX DIP TANK SOLUTION AND INK CLEANING CHEMISTRY?

Answer: You can, but it’s not recommended if you want your dip tank solution to last. Mixing chemicals like ink cleaners into your dip tank will reduce the effectiveness of the stencil remover. If you're going to clean a batch quickly, it's okay, but the solution won’t be useful the next day.

RELATED: HOW TO SAVE MONEY WITH A DUNK TANK

10. WHAT’S THE BEST PRINT ORDER FOR WET-ON-WET COLORS?

Answer: There are no hard rules, just suggestions! Generally, print from the smallest to largest areas or lightest to darkest colors. For color blending, print the most opaque colors first and the more translucent colors last. For example, if you’re blending yellow and red, printing yellow last (if it’s translucent) creates better orange blends.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Whether you're battling off-contact adjustments or hunting for that perfect mesh count, there’s always something new to learn in screen printing!

Have a question you want Colin to Dive Deep on? Submit it here!

TIP: Share these insights with a friend in the industry—especially if they’re diving into DTF or struggling with mesh counts. See you in the next Q&A!